Small-scale and circular solutions are changing the textile industry
There are great opportunities to produce clothes in a more sustainable way than what is made today. The industry is facing a series of changes, including to cope with the new regulations expected at EU level. When garments are fitted with digital product passports (DPP), this could lead to a greater proportion of clothing being produced in Europe in the future. The DPP will include information to facilitate recycling, sorting and repair.
- Many of the garments produced by today's textile industry never reach consumers — others do but are used no more than a few times, says Lars Mattiasson, project manager at Future by Lund. At the same time, there are examples where both the environment and people get caught up when the cheap garments are made. This kind of large-scale manufacturing has worked so far because you produce without having to pay for what you destroy — both for the environment and for people. When new regulations are expected, this mode of production will incur other costs, and this opens up possibilities for a new mode of production.
Future by Lund is connected to the textile industry, among other things, through the research network Fashion @lu with researchers from Lund University all nine faculties and through cooperation with NEST (New Entrepreneurship for a Sustainable Textile Industry), an initiative to revamp the textile and fashion industries. In recent months, work in the textile and fashion field has resulted in a Horizon application called Vivienne (after Vivienne Westwood). The vision is that the contracting parties together will be able to create two completely new production chains designed for the textile and fashion industries of the future.
- Through the Vivienne project, we want to explore how we can use small-scale and circular solutions — which could mean manufacturing on demand, says Katarina Scott, project coordinator at Future by Lund. In the project, we hope to investigate all stages from production to consumer, distribution and recycling.
Many of the solutions presented in Vivienne already exist — but they need to be adapted to a new context.
“There is a challenge to make an application that involves creating a common solution with the help of many competencies. We see the innovation platform Future by Lund as the key to this solution, because Future by Lund has the ability to bring together different partners and to make their approaches work together,” says Lars Mattiasson. There are many small links in a long value chain to fit together.
A key action in the project is to start by creating a database library across fibers, which can help the designer make sustainable choices. In this shall AFRY work with a database of materials for the construction industry as a model. Another part is digitized production, where AI is also used to make the processes better and more sustainable, for example for cutting but also for the entire planning of the machinery fleet, maintenance and how to make forecasts. This is supplied through the Nearby factory which has machines for a special technology of pressing fabric rolls. Then follows, among other things, how to work with logistics chains with the help of researchers at Lund University and with digital product passports (DPP) through Whatt.io which allow consumers to easily find out where they can repair, return or sell items of clothing.
- In many European countries, the textile industry is currently quite small. If we are to move production closer to consumers and produce more tailored to their needs, we need to reindustrialise - and when doing so, it is important to do so using the latest methods, says Katarina Scott.
The Horizon application is made in the area of Twin transition (Green & digital) and was submitted in the spring of 2024. Fourteen partners participate in the application and there are twenty associated activities. Now the collaboration has started and the ambition is for it to live on, both through additional applications and through a capacity to receive external requests.
Research Network Fashion @lu consists of researchers from all nine faculties of Lund University. The fashion industry ranges from chemists and materials scientists to fashion and behavioural scientists.
NEST (New Entrepreneurship for a Sustainable Textile Industry) is an initiative to transform the textile and fashion industry created by the four incubators Borås INK, Expression, Sting and XPlot, which with specialist areas ranging from textile to tech are ready to support entrepreneurs in their development from business concept to growth company.
Read more:
Lunda researchers are recognized for circular business model for textiles
The role of textile designers in change
Researcher Network for a Green Transition of the Fashion Industry
